Ragu Bolognese

Meat sauce in Italy has hundreds of regional interpretations and I have loved everyone I have ever tasted! In Emilia Romagna, the combination of mixed ground meat with sofrito and good tomato purée is the most widely recognized. I learned many variations on the basic recipe from 5 or 6 different women in Emilia Romagna, all with slight differences. Modifications included what meat they used, white wine or red wine, milk or no milk, bay leaf or no bay leaf, etc. What always remained constant in all their recipes (aside from absolutely no garlic!) was time… ragu takes time. This sauce is an experience of patience; of slow, low heat. Little bubbles blipping away all morning. The smell throughout the house all morning, eventually reaching the sweet spot on the nose that naturally calls everyone to the table.

This is the recipe that I have settled on as my version from a collection of tastes and lessons learned from each of these women and their families.

INGREDIENTS

125 ml olive oil

1 large onion, finely chopped

4 stalks of celery with some of the inner leaves, finely chopped

3 medium carrots, finely chopped

2 fresh bay leaves

2 tsp salt

1 tsp fresh cracked pepper

1/2 lb each of finely ground pork, veal and beef

1 cup best quality pure tomato paste

400 ml dry white wine ( or red)

1 tsp freshly grated nutmeg

1 cup whole milk

METHOD

In a large heavy pot or Dutch oven heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add in the sofrito (onion, celery including leaves and carrot). Stir to coat in the oil. Season with salt and pepper and toss in the bay leaves. Sauté and sweat the sofrito for 10 minutes.

Adjust heat to medium high and add in the meats. Cook until evenly brown, about another 10-12 minutes. Add the tomato paste and stir to distribute evenly, making sure the sofrito and meat is well coated. Cool for 5 minutes more.

Deglaze with the wine and scrape any bits off the bottom of the pot. Cook for about 2 minutes to allow some of the wine to evaporate.

Reduce heat to medium low, partially cover and leave to simmer for 2 - 2 1/2 hours. Stirring every 20 minutes or so. You can add a splash if water every ao often if the mixture is drying out at all.

Stir in the fresh nutmeg and milk. Check for seasoning, adjust as necessary with salt and pepper. Serve with Tagliatelle!